High expectations can be dangerous. I learned this the hard way after planning a trip specifically to dive with whale sharks, a creature that’s evaded the peripheral of my mask for years. On my latest attempt, I ascended with nothing notable to jot in my logbook. Meanwhile, a Discover scuba diver on the same boat tilted his head and asked his guide, “So, what was that huge spotted fish?”
In Fiji, the waters around the remote Lau islands hold a mystical reputation. Legend has it the water in Lau is clearer, the sea life is more abundant, and the reefs pop with brighter colors than the rest of Fiji—and the rest of Fiji is already top tier. I heard all the stories in the three years I’d lived and dived throughout the country, but yet to make it there. As one of the least populated island chains in Fiji, the only way to truly experience Lau is by boat. Unless you own a yacht or can charter one, the best way to reach Lau is onboard MV Reef Endeavour, a small cruise ship that hosts up to 130 passengers on its biannual journey.